The Dior Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 show last week in Paris, during Couture Week, was a lavish tribute to Bombay craftsmanship in Paris. Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired by the Art Deco of the 1920s.
For this show, organized under the white marquee set up in the gardens of the Rodin Museum, the artistic director collaborated with students from the Chanakya School of Craft in Bombay, India. They embroidered the most important works of Indian duo Madhvi and Manu Parekh, two of the country’s greatest contemporary artists. In this particular period, there was an emotional charge, an aura of grace when admiring this perfectly orchestrated scenography.
Gorgeous, colorful, oversized panels have been hung on either side of the walls inside the box. These exceptional pieces of art required thousands of hours of manual labor for an entire year. They definitely tell the power of the artisan and highlight the complete looks of the collection. Maria Grazia Chiuri, known for her feminist commitment, collaborated with 380 students from the Chanakya School of Craft to create the decor for the Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 show.
In this haute couture collection, once again, Maria Grazia Chiuri honors human relationships with handmade objects. A constant desire to break down the boundaries between art and craftsmanship for everyone. To celebrate the 75th anniversary of the first Christian Dior fashion show, Maria Grazia Chiuri has gone far into history for this collection. The Maison Christian Dior did not exist in the 1920s. A divine celebration of embroiderers and the arts combined with the experimentation and constant questioning of Haute Couture. “I wanted to celebrate our famous embroiderers Lesage and Hurel, but also those from the other side of the world” said the creative director. A mission to maintain the extreme know-how of haute couture houses wherever they are established.
The Dior show opened the Parisian couture calendar on a sunny day, an ode to grace and lightness. The light grey, black and white colors of the looks merge with the beautiful scenography of the show. 64 stylish looks. Models with a deep white eyeliner effect and “boyish” hair wore asymmetrical draped bodysuits and pleated skirts in black silk tulle with a geometric vermicelli smoke tube and shard embroidery made by the Hurel family house established in Paris since 1879.
Straight trouser suit in ecru wool, long champagne-coloured dress in fancy lace and organza, or day dress in gray bouclé wool: the looks in the collection are not all ready. Old gold knit lace embroidered with gray satin beads is a feat of stitch embroidery. A clever contrast imagined by the artistic director of Dior Woman Collection. Signature of the collection, the tights draw their spectacular dimension from the embroidery to create a lively dialogue with the different pieces, from the gray suit adorned with greyness to the lightness of the evening dresses in tulle.
An evanescent couture collection in an artisanal decor that reveals the deep meaning of haute couture and the power of the workshops as a strong collaborative mode of expression.